There’s something about sports bar food that speaks to the most basic of dining experiences. Hanging out with friends, having a beer, munching on some appetizers, playing pool and watching a game - all of these are at the core of the sports bar experience.

These experiences also form the core of the dining experience at Overtime. Well-hidden off Campbell Lane near the Kroger shopping center, Overtime opened a few months ago in the location of the former Racks building.

The wide-open space remains, now filled with indoor cornhole games, pool tables and darts, making Overtime a kind of a “Cue Time” with more food. Overtime also seems to cater to a younger crowd.

The vast indoor space also means that there is no practical separation between smoking and non-smoking, and we went home smelling like we’d smoked a few packs of cigarettes. I immediately washed my clothes. It was that bad.

Overtime’s motto is “come for the food.” We had, so that part was easy. With 16 appetizers from which to choose, the menu caters to customers more intent on watching sports or playing bar trivia than those who came in for a fine meal.

The main courses include oven-baked sandwiches, cheesesteaks, pulled pork barbecue, calzones and French dip, while the menu of pizzas are named after former Kentucky Derby horses.

We began with appetizers of wings, cheese sticks, deep-fried mushrooms and jalapeno poppers.

The wings had a smoky, barbecue flavor to them that was both unusual and tasty. I ordered them coated in mild sauce with “hot” on the side, and was not at all disappointed in either sauce. The mushroom batter was thick and flavorful, with the mushrooms still tender and juicy inside. While both of those dishes seem to have been created in the kitchen, the jalapeno poppers and cheese sticks were plain and store-bought. I was completely unimpressed with either dish.

The “Squeeze Play Burger,” a two-patty affair with all the fixings, is Overtime’s signature dish. I wouldn’t call it a John Hancock-type of signature. The patties were very small - almost lost in the bun, tomatoes and onions that smothered it. The mayonnaise-based sauce had a nice tang, but it couldn’t rescue the dish. Presentation can be everything on a plate. Instead of two patties that appear small in comparison to the rest of the ingredients, the dish would be better served with one large piece of meat that appears to overwhelm everything around it. After all, customers order it for the burger, not the accoutrements.

The stromboli with pepper and sausage was also fair. A garlic and parmesan topping gave it a bit of extra flavor, helping to support a decent marinara sauce. The calzone was also OK, but mostly unimpressive. Neither of these dishes was remarkable in any way.

Honestly, I like bar food. A platter of appetizers is a singular joy, and uniquely American in its presentation, intent and composition. There are some good restaurants in town that serve up some fine food amid a wall full of televisions playing every sport imaginable. And there are few things in life that confer as much pleasure as passing a mindless afternoon eating bar food, drinking a beer, maybe playing some television trivia, and watching a game on television. But I won’t be doing it at Overtime.

The food was unremarkable at best, and virtually every dish is made somewhere else in town, but better. The addition of an atmosphere thick with smoke means that I probably won’t be back any time soon.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

OVERTIME

773 Bakerfields Way