Legend has it that in the 1700s the Earl of Sandwich invented the dish that bears his name, when he ordered some meat tucked between pieces of bread. True or not, the lowly sandwich has come a long way since then. Now sandwiches are a part of school kids’ lunches, and according to Becky Mercuri, in her book “American Sandwich: Great Eats from All 50 States,” Americans consume 45 billion sandwiches every year. Yeah, that’s 45 billion. Many Americans get that fare at corner delicatessens.

There was a time when those delis had just one or two kinds of offerings - hoagies and subs. Today we have a place like Griff’s Deli. With 29 offerings scattered across five categories, this isn’t your parents’ deli. Although the atmosphere is Spartan, the food is fancier than that. There are no hoagies or subs here. No grinders, heroes or Dagwoods.

Instead, Griff’s serves paninis and wraps. I had the veggie wrap, which had lettuce, sprouts, avocado, tomato, mushrooms and cheese encased in a spinach tortilla. The dressing was tangy, and complimented the filling very well. The overall flavor was not overly sharp, but instead was light, and had a crunchy texture. I loved it.

Griff’s chipotle chicken panini was excellent, and I look forward to having another. A chipotle is made by taking a jalapeno that has ripened to redness and placing it in a smoker for several days until it becomes thoroughly dried. Chipotles are often served with some kind of sauce, and are generally much hotter than jalapenos. The slightly smoky flavor of the chipotle panini complimented, but didn’t overwhelm, the chicken and pepper jack cheese. The bacon provided some extra texture and a nice background flavor. Despite the chipotles, this was not a spicy sandwich.

Griff’s is well-known for its potato menu, and the two-pound potatoes with fillings are more than a meal on their own. The Texas BBQ Spud comes piled up with pulled pork barbecue and cheddar cheese, and was tangy, and very good. The Fajita Spud comes with grilled steak (chicken is also available, as is no meat at all), onions, peppers, jalapenos, tomatoes and cheese. I had really looked forward to this one, and to be honest it was the only disappointing thing I ate at Griff’s. Although the flavor was OK - not outstanding - the meat was sliced much too thickly to get a fork through to the potato very easily. It was a fight, and one I eventually lost.

For people with a big appetite, or who relish a test of their fortitude, Griff’s has a $16.95 “Bomber” potato challenge along the lines of that at The Big Texan Steak Ranch in Texas, which offers a 72-ounce steak for free if a customer can eat it in an hour. At Griff’s this takes the form of a potato with 2 1/2 pounds of chicken, along with bacon, cheese, onions, tomatoes, jalapenos, sour cream and butter. Weighing in at six pounds, it’s not for the faint of heart. But for anyone who manages to gobble it down, Griff’s offers a free T-shirt and will put the diner’s picture on the wall.

Finally, the “Deli Delights” menu category includes club sandwiches, a ham and cheese and a chicken salad sandwich. There’s also a Griff’s Gobbler in there, which is loaded with turkey, bacon, apples and provolone cheese on a cranberry sunflower loaf. A few salads round out the menu offerings.

Lunchtime at Griff’s doesn’t seem to be all that crowded for dine-in customers, but it does a crazy carryout business. However, you’ll have to call in for a menu. Although the place has been open all year, the Web site doesn’t have even the most basic information - phone number, menu items or prices, hours, etc. It doesn’t appear to hurt. When I’ve been in the deli, it seems that half of Greenview Regional Hospital and The Medical Center come through, followed by professionals of every type. And those are people who know carryout. At around $6 to $7 (without a drink) for most of the menu items, the price is right.

Every town needs a sandwich joint. Big or small, it doesn’t really matter. The town needs a place where someone can drop in and find a consistently good sandwich any time the place is open. The sandwiches don’t have to be fancy, they just have to be good. The place can be nice, or it can be a bit run down. I prefer a run-down place with a bit of character myself. But it’s the food that draws the customers in. That’s Griff’s Deli. Good food, consistent quality and good prices.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

GRIFF’S DELI

1640 Scottsville Road